Volvo S40, V50, S60, XC90 2006-2013 Single CD stereos are compatible. For cars outside of USA, in some case if device is recognized and work properly but only for few seconds you will need to visit your dealer and apply MOST Security OFF patch. This patch can be removed by the authorized dealer only. This patch will. Get the latest breaking news across the U.S. On ABCNews.com.

Had the same problem last year and it drove me CRAZY! You have probably already done this, but first check all your fluid levels, and see if the temp gage seems to read correct as the engine warms. My dealer told me as long as all these are good, and the boat is running fine, I could probably finish the season in my small in-land lake. Mine was every 30 seconds, and turned out to be a bad “idle air mixture control module”, fancy name for a butterfly valve. Ended up costing me around $200 and took less than a day to have replaced. Made me wish I would have taken it in sooner.

Fiberglass Surface Oxidation: I am sure that there are others who are as anal as I am when it comes to the appearance of their Cobalt. I have a 253 2000 Cobalt and it suffered from Fiberglass Surface Oxidation. I am the second owner thus far, and I must say that I am much more aware of this boat’s problems than the last owner. What is Fiberglass Surface Oxidation?

The combination of the processes involved in the flow of electrons from a reducing agent (reducer) to an oxidizing agent (oxidant). The total number of electrons lost by one substance is the same as the total number of electrons gained by another substance. Oxidation and reduction always occur together simultaneously and are really opposite sides of the same reaction, which is often called the redox reaction. In earlier years, oxidation referred to the combining of a substance with, or addition of, oxygen; and reduction meant the loss or reduction of oxygen.

As chemistry became more advanced, it was seen that the real key to what was happening was the gain or loss of electrons. The following definitions now apply.

Chopin Waltz Minor Posthumous Pdf Converter on this page. Oxidation is the loss of electrons from the reducing agent (which is said to have “been oxidized” in the process). Since electrons carry negative charges, oxidation results in an increase of positive valence.

Reduction is the acquiring of electrons (the ones lost in the oxidation process) by the oxidizing agent (which is said to have “been reduced” in the process). Because electrons (carrying negative charges) have been acquired, reduction results in a lowering (a reduction) of positive valence.

It may be helpful to remember that the word “agent” refers to an active substance that produces or brings about some effect. Therefore the oxidizing agent is the substance that brings about the oxidation; the reducing agent is the substance that brings about the reduction. All of which is why a boat’s fiberglass will look spotty, dull, and/or if touched a white power residue will be left on your fingers. How to repair it? Some people say an oxidation remover and color restore is the least abrasive method to bring back that showroom finish. Other people try simply compounding the surface and then re-polishing it.

I tried both and it ended up with the same result, after 2-3 days the surface looked faded again. The only solution that finally worked, Sanding! Actually it’s a three step process that must be done. First step is to Wet Sand the entire boat, or just the area in question, but trust me when you see how easy combined with the great results, you will want to sand every thing.

Ok, using a 600 Grit Wed/Dry sand paper, grab a water bucket to dunk in and lightly sand. Note, once wet the sandpaper will slide easy back and forth, removing all the unwanted spotting. Important, once the wet sand paper starts to stick, meaning not moving as slippery across the surface, dunk the sandpaper in the water again.

600 Grit is not abrasive at all; furniture makers use 300 grit as a polishing paper between gloss coats. They do make up to 1200 Grit if you are really concerned. But again, 600 grit, if you were a girl, could buff your finger nails to a mirror shine. Nevertheless and once the entire area you are repairing is sanded, it is time for step two, compounding.

This process is simple you need the brown deep type compound, so make a run to Boater’s World, good thing is they also sell the 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper, for it costs about $1 a sheet. Anyway with a small rag apply the compound, let set and remove with a clean, soft rag. For the best results, rent/use an industrial buffer, but I used a small car buffer, costing about $30, and it worked great. After the compounding step, it’s on to the polishing phase. Two coats are needed, I recommend using a polish having a sealer wax.

Finally after the three steps, by the way, taking me three nights after work, the oxidation was removed and nothing but lasting shine. Now it is up to you to keep the oxidation away, Cobalt suggests polishing your boat once a month, not once every season as a friend of mine suggests. To have the boat yard perform this restoration will cost about $600, but if you follow my outline it will cost less then $100. Materials used were: 6 Full sheets of 600 Grit Wet/Dry Sand paper, 1 Bottle of Brown Deep Type Compound, 2 bottles of Polish with Sealer Wax, 1 sanding block, and 1 bucket. I will try to upload the before and after pictures as well, but the camera doesn’t do it justice, it came out AWESOME! All the best Paul Paolillo •.

Pete, I haven’t read all the posts so if you’ve already found a company to add a platform to your Cobalt, you can ignore this email. I have a 1997 220. I added an extended platform to it from Swim Platform in Phoenix, AZ (). In fact, mine was the prototype platform for the 220. I have two young sons so I was thrilled to have the platform extend out over the outdrive. This meant my kids could jump off the back of the boat and land several yards away from the prop.

Best addition to my boat that my money could buy! Hi Mike – I am thinking about buying a platform for my 1997 Cobalt 220 from Swim Platform in Phoenix. I called the Cobalt dealer here in Seattle and they indicated they do not recommend it because the boat can porpoise after installing. Have you had any negative experience with the ride, etc. After installing the platform? I also have two young sons (ages 11 & 9) and I agree that this is about the best investment I could make to make the boat more enjoyable.

Can you let me know any thoughts on this – thanks so much! Rob, (in case Mike doesn’t reply back), I can not imagine there being any problem with you adding a swim platform.

I just looked thru all my Cobalt various pics, & even the ’95 220 has the “extended running surface” (where the motor mounts in a notch in the back of the boat, with the motor’s mounting surface further towards the front), which is what my ’07 226 has, & there is absolutely no problem with mine. Also, 220’s are readily available from the factory with swim platforms, so what can be the big deal?

I have tons of 220 pics from ’03 on up showing swim platforms. I think that’s when Cobalt started installing them. I suspect your dealer just doesn’t really know & is playing it safe.

I guess if you really want to be sure, I’d call the Cobalt factory, but if it was me, I’d just do it. The platform is great. Chris, I had a similar problem to this with my former boat (86 Chapperal).

It turned out to be the anti-siphon valve that prevents fuel that has been drawn up into the engine from draining back into the gas tank when the engine is turned off. That valve would stick in the closed position (or at least not all the way open) when it warmed up from the sun or motor heat and not open freely. Drove me crazy!

Turned out to be about a $12 dollar part (of course this was not diagnosed until after the cardurator had been rebuilt and a number of other things fixed unnecessarily). I purchased a 1997 23LS at the end of the season last year. I have enjoyed the boat more than I could have imagined. It has the top engine option for the year – 502MAG with dual prop. Top speed for me has been 64mph in Lake Erie with ~1 foot chop. Wish I had bought this sweet heart years ago. As this model was only offered for a few years, some information is difficult to find.

Hopefully someone here can help me out. Depth finder does not beep at all, no matter what I set the warning depth to. I only have a Bimini top and winter cover. Can I order a mooring cover from Cobalt? Should I just have one custom made? The boat has a single battery and does not have a battery isolation switch.

Was this an option for this model? If so, can anyone tell me where the isolation switch is located? I am going to put in a second battery and isolation switch, and wanted to keep it as close as I can to Cobalt specs. I have a small surface crack in the gel coat near the top of my ladder. Is this something I can fix myself, or should I leave it to a professional?

Lastlyhow do I become a member? Please reply to e-mail – •. I have a 2000 227 with a 502, bravo 3 drive, 2:1 ratio and downpitched props for altitude running (Lake Tahoe, 6220elev). Can anyone help with propeller pitches, computer adjustment. I now run the boat at Lake Meade (NV) which is about 1100elev. I can run 76mph (radar and GPS tested) but the boat feels like i needs more bite.

Besides changing the props are there any computer adjustments (re-program) or anyhting else i can do to make it more altitute friendly. In Lake Tahoe, the speed, fuel usage, holeshot are fantastic but in lower altitude it just feels slugish and thirsty.Thanks to anyone that can help.

I have a 272 with the 502Mag and Bravo III. We bought it home from Lake Tahoe (6,200 ft) to Toronto (500ft) and can report the EFI adjusted itself automatically, just as Merc Tech Support told me it would. No issues with operation, and power to spare.

Same 2.0:1 drive ratio, and with 24 pitch props, easy to attain 50 mph and with neck-snapping start-up. I have researched this to death, and other than perhaps improving the fuel efficiency, and the top end a few mph, the move to 26 pitch will do little, and cost $500 – $1,000. I don’t need more that 50 mph, and love the acceleration. You’ll find many online prop calculators, and you can also call Merc or Cobalt for personal support. Both were great resources for me. Good luck; David •.

Hello Boaters, I have asked Rod this already but i thought i’d run it out to all ya’ll. I am looking to buy a used Cobalt (2004-2006) and am having a hard time deciding between a 262 or a 250.

Both are gonna have what i like, 496, over 25 feet, and walk thru stern. Can someone enlighten me on what else is differant?

And another topic if both are same year, condition, hours, etc and were the same money, which one would be the better buy? (aka which one was more valuable when new, which one is more in demand right now?) thanx for any help you can provide. Hi Dennis, If the money was the same and all else being equal I would jump at the 262 hands down.OKOK.I would even pay more for the 262!! The 262 is probably the best riding boat Cobalt ever produced.they have ever said it is one of those boats that fell into that perfect spot in the performance envelope where every parameter was spot on. All it takes is a ride to see the differenceit is silky smooth, quiet, fast, hand handles extremely well for a 26′ boat.

The 250 is also a great boat in itself.it’s just not a 262. It was designed as a less expensive version of the 262.

Hope that helps? Calling any and all current Cobalt owners in the DFW metroplex, would love to get tiogether at your favorite lake and have a gathering of these beautiful machines. If anyone is interested in doing so, please shoot me an email and lets see howmany folks we can get involved, can be any weekend, would love to see a calendar of events created for DFW and other areas where there is interest in doing so. Step up and lets go to the lake! We can compare water toys and just plain fun activities, if anyone has a parasail you know how much fun they can be, especially if you have some buds to help get it in the air! Let’s start a long standing tradition and create something all will be jealous of and be an example for others!

Info needed on 7.4 Volvo Outdrive Problem. Cobalt is a 252 – 2000 model, and just purchased recently from private owner. Noticed when I first took it out on the water, it makes a kind of grinding noise & vibration when turing in either direction, as well as when trying to trim out engine “up or down”. Seems to be getting worse as I use it.

Have only took it out for about 1 hour; due to noise/vibration. Makes noise/vibration either going fast or slow, again when turning. When in neutral, you can rew the engine and engine sounds fine, but you can still hear and feel a little noise and viration going on from outdrive.

Not sure if this is a U-Joint going bad, Drive Shaft Bearing needing grease, Bellows with a hole letting water in and grease out??? Any HELP would be greatly appreciated. Well, I did buy this 16′ cobalt for our first boat.

So far we have had lots of fun, but have also run into a few snags. Seems the previous owner did not care for it very well, and I missed it when looking at the boat.

We’ve had it out lots and have had a ton of fun, then last weekend it was running rough, and had less power I opened it up and saw lots of H20 running down the side of the motor. Seems it was not winterized properly and there is a crack under the manifold in the block. Compression in all cylinders is ~130, and oil has NO water in it. I ground down the crack, made a V in it, and drilled both ends. Then applied epoxy to the crack. This is a Merc140, so it’s not a tremendous amnt of pressure there hopefully it will hold for at least the rest of the season Hopefully we’ll be able to upgrade next year to a MUCH newer boat.

Not likely to be a cobalt though. Too much $$ for my budget. Does anyone agree that the little transom doors that are like 12″ tall are basically useless? I’m not even sure they’d stop an infant, & they definitely don’t stop stuff that’s blowing around in the boat, i.e.

My dealer called them “Lawsuit Doors” or something like that, as in Cobalt’s lawyers (or maybe insurance company?) told them they had to install them. They’re so short they seem to be useless. I’m thinking about removing mine to get it out of the way & just sticking it in my closet. I’ll just re-install it whenever I sell it.

Cobalt’s are awesomely made! And so are most boat motors/ engines these days. But the engine’s total hours don’t really tell the whole story; It depends on how the previous owner(s) treated it, whether or not they performed maintenance, changed oil, etc. You really should have it inspected by a certified boat mechanic, who needs to do among other things a cylinder pressure/ leak test, which will tell you alot about the engine’s wear and how much of its life is gone.

That said, I LOVE my 226! I’m a huge fan of boats in general, and every time I boat I keep my eyes open for other nice boats, including ones that might be better than mine: So far there is no better boat than mine, regardless of cost! Red 2007 Cobalt 226 with a Merc 8.1L 496 Mag 375 hp.

1999 233 bought in 2009 for $17.5 with 85 hours on it. 7.4L GXI duo-prop, dual battery, bimini, cockpit cover, custom bow cover, custom full cover, dual-axle Eagle custom trailer, porto-potty, fresh water transom shower, am/fm cd player. Fresh water boat.

Everything practically mint. Ended up replacing batteries because they were small and one was old. Put about 1000 in general maintenance in to it (impeller, oil change, out drive serviced, etc). I’d factor that in to any used boat buy, and depending on the maintenance history could help you bargain price. Definitely love the boat though! Come on in, the water is fine!

I was having the same problem w/ my ’79 Cobalt 18TH. It would randomly get stuck in up. The only solution I have found is to not raise the stern all the way up and when raising or lowering, it is imperative that you do it in small increments.

For now, to get it down, have someone ready to help you. Loosen the three bolts that hold the quadrant gear to the upper gear case housing. Once loosened, have a buddy hold on to the stern drive and jiggle it up and down while you lower it with the switch. This should jar it loose. Once it does, tighten the three bolts and just remember to never raise it all the way up.

I wonder if anyone might be able to give me a bit of advice I have a 2000 226 with a Volvo 5.7 DP. I am getting a pretty stead drip inside the boat, that lets in approximately 2-3 gallons in an hour. When i spoke with my mechanic, he seemed to think that it was probaly theseal between the y-pipe and the transome (plate?). He indicated that the motor would have to come out to replace. Is this a common problem?

After speaking to him I have sinced noticed that the shift from neutral to drive/reverse is getting pretty stiff. Could the leak be related to the shift problem? Thanks for any help! I have a 1987 17BR. The main circuit breaker on the dash panel has begun to pop. The faster I go, the sooner it pops. The dealer suggested replacing the circuit breaker which had some corrosion but he did not know the rating of the breaker.

He sold me a 20 Amp breaker and the popping stopped but I’m afraid it’s because the breaker may be too high. Does anyone know what the amperage should be? Any thoughts on what components may be causing the circuit breaker to pop if it isn’t the 22 year old breaker? I need some advice. I’m prepare to purchase a new Cobalt. I’m going to by a 2008-9 242 with a Merc 496 or Volvo 8.1.

(375 hp) I’m debating about ordering a “closed cooling system” Logic tells me that it’s better to run clean coolant through and engine rather than dirty lake water (oh, yeah. I’m ONLY going to run this boat in “fresh” water. After all, I live in Indiana.) But I’ve had many people tell me that the closed cooling system is not worth the money and it’s not necessary.

Even a Cobalt dealer told me this! I also realize that fresh water has been used to cool engines for decades.

So my question: Is a closed cooling system really worth the investment if I’m not going to use it in salt water? (We can have the debate about the which engine later.) •. I have no experience with the Volvo but my boat does have a closed cooling system. You’re in fresh water, but let’s say in five years you put the boat up for sale. Someone from Florida calls and asks if it has a closed cooling system. You say no, he cannot buy your boat. Or let’s say you take it to Seattle and you want to go through the locks in the Puget Sound.

Oops, no closed cooling system. If you know for absolute certain that you’ll never sell it, to someone who is in salt water, and that you’ll never want to take it into salt water, skip it. Otherwise, get it. Daron, Are you with Boattown? I posted yesterday that I recently purchased a 2007 Cobalt 232. I had Boattown change the oil and do a quick check.

I also had them check the “growling” sound when I place the drive (volvo) in neutral. As long as it is engaged, forward or reverse, no growl. They topped off the drive fluid, but said everything else was normal.

I’ve looked for lose parts that might be rattling on the swim platform, but nothing. Second, my instrument lights are very, very faint. Raheem Devaughn A Place Called Loveland Rarlab. Is this by design or am I likely missing a bulb or adjustment.

Thanks in advance for the assistance, D •. I have a 2004 220 and have had to replace the oil pressure sensor a total of 3 times because all have been deemed “faulty”. Whenever I experience a problem with it, the warning alarm sounds (about every 2 seconds), but the engine does not go into ‘safety mode’ (where it will not allow you to throttle up to more than a few hundred RPM’s). Has anyone else had a problem with this/know what could be making the sensor activate unneccesarily? It could be unrelated, but we have had problems with this engine before due to water that inevitably drips into the engine compartment whenever the hatch is opened.

For such a “well thought out” boat that is made by a company that claims to have the best design on the water, it was extremely dissapointing when we stopped dead in the water a few seasons back because the engine’s electrical coil had been corroded by water leaking into the engine compartment each time the hatch was opened. Please tell me I’m not the only one familiar with this unavoidable problem! Email me directly and I will send you the Figure pictures.

The process detailed below is how to winterize an I/O Stern drive and engine. The parts will depend on the size of one’s engine.

I have a 2000 Cobalt 253 with a 7.4 L GM Big Block engine. Frankly, I was tired of paying a mechanic $300-400 for a task that was not very hard. Time it takes is about 2 hours, and the parts the first year cost roughly $250. The oil extractor was 40$, the hand pump was $15, and the Oil, fogger, and 2 filters were $75 the gear lube was $9 a qt, and the coolant was $30 for a case. Again, all of which totaled about $250, but I bought enough for 2 seasons.

Once you have the equipment the cost should be about $100 a season. Any questions, I can be contacted directly at, good luck and all the best. Paul Winterization Process 1)Change Oil: Review Figure 1 a.Get an oil pump extractor, Figure 8. B.Via the engine yellow tipped dip-stick, connect one end of the oil pump extractor hose directly to the dip-stick on the engine, Figure 1.

C.Pump the oil pump extractor handle a few times (10-12) to create a vacuum. The oil will start to flow into the container. D.Drain all oil from the engine (estimated time: 15 minutes to pump it out) e.Once the oil seems to be drained, then unscrew the oil filter, Figure 1 (Location: top-right side of engine). F.As the oil filter loosens, the engine may now have excess oil in the pan, perform step b to ensure as much of the old oil is removed. G.With all oil out of the engine, re-apply a new oil filter, not forgetting to lube the bottom filter gasket before beginning to screw back on. H.Tighten filter just passed “Hand tight” i.Fill engine with correct quantity of specified oil (Check engine manual for oil capacities w/filter) j.Run engine for 5 minutes so that the engine is warm.

2)Fuel Tank Preparation a.Add fuel stabilizer to fuel tank b.Run engine for 10-15 minutes so that the engine is warm, then turn off engine (Note: Always closely monitor engine operating temperatures, for proper impellor cooling water pump supply operation. Do not operate above 1200 RPM on garden-hose adaptor, Figure 2). 3)Engine Water Cooling System Preparation (Lower Unit) a.One has to get creative for this next part. Some people use a garbage bucket, I like using a modified gasoline container.

B.Modified gasoline container method to fit a Stern drive intake garden hose adapter: Figure 2: Recommendation is to use a 44357Q2 QUICKSILVER OUTBOARD FLUSH KIT. I.Using a 5 gallon unused/brand new red gasoline container fill it with winterization fluid (Marine grade anti-freeze, normally pink in color).

Take a piece of 4 foot garden hose and secure one end of garden hose to the output of the gasoline container, yes one may have to cut the hose so it can slide into the container. It is best to tighten the hose directly onto the gasoline container’s screw cap threads to create basic a vacuum seal. Once secure, then take the other end of the garden hose and connect it to the boat’s stern drive lower unit water intake using a cooling flush-kit, commonly called rabbit ears. (Location: The water pick-up ports on a stern drive and outboard are both located on each side of the lower unit gearcase). Iv.Then set the gasoline container filled with cooling fluid up high, a rear swim platform works great.

V.Get into the boat. 4)Engine Water Cooling System Preparation (Engine Block: Figure 1) a.At the engine, and one at a time, disconnect the cooling hoses at the engine main intake (Location: Top- Front, single point where all hoses are connected together). B.Again, remove top of hose and then direct hose downward, so that all water drains out of the hose. Then reconnect all hoses. C.Added precaution: Figure 5 one can further elect to remove and drain water from all accessible drain plugs on the engine block, there should be 4. Note: Use a high-temp silicone to coat the mating surface thread to truly have a seal between the brass freeze plug and the wall of the engine.

5)Winterizing the water pump a.(This is a two-person job) With the cooling hoses reconnected one person start the engine and let it run. At the same time the boat engine is running, the second person is watching the 5 gallon gasoline container filled with pink coolant, once the container is 2/3rd empty tell the engine operator to turn off the engine.

B.(Note: This procedure is for a fuel injected engine, 7.4 L MPI GM Big Block, for if one has a carburetor, instead of turning off the engine once 2/3rd of the coolant is out of the gasoline container, use a can of fogging spray (Figure 3), and spray it directly into the air-intake, continuously spray until the engine chokes itself off, then follow step c.) c.Your boat engine should never be turned on again until next season. D.Continuing the coolant process, and at the engine hose intake center point, Figure 1 (thermostat housing if you have one), one at a time, remove the top most connection and dump a little downward, don’t drain it, just splash it and see if it is pink in color. E.If it is, and it should be, upright the hose so one can pour more fluid into it. Meaning, take a funnel stick it into the hose and pour continuously pink coolant into the hose until it is full, then reconnect the end of the hose to the engine’s intake. F.Repeat this step with all hoses coming of the main intake (**Important Note: the water pump is the key, and there is only one hose that comes off the water pump, so that hose must pour out pink coolant with the engine off, pour out just enough to see that it is pink, don’t let it drain all out.

The other hoses can be dry, if they are dry (meaning empty) just fill them up with pint coolant until they are fill) until all hoses are full of pink coolant. Estimated 5-6 gallons of pink coolant is needed.

6)Replace the Water/fuel separator Filter a.Remove the water/fuel separator filter from the engine (Looks very similar to an oil filter location: mid-left side of engine, just beneath the alternator. (Note: Be careful this container maybe filled with fuel, no smoking at this point). Locate the new water/fuel separator filter and turn upside down, so it will act as a cup and hold fluid. Using a can of CRC Fogging oil, directly spray CRC fluid into the water/fuel separator filter until it is full, but not overflowing.

Then reattach the filler to the circulator pump housing. 7)Optional: Change the lower unit Gear Oil a.Go to Stern drive and locate the lower unit drain plug, unscrew it and let the oil drain down into an oil pan, Figure 4. B.Once the oil is stopped draining, then unscrew the upper unit drain plug at the top of the stern drive, then more should come out. C.Once all oil is out prepare 3-4 qts of gear lube oil d.Figure 6: Using a lower unit hand pump attach the pump side to the individual qt of gear lube, for it will screw on.

Still Figure 6, and then, take the other side of the pump which looks like a thin plastic tube with a plastic screw head, and screw it directly into the lower unit drain plug location. E.Figure 7: Setup, the Figure 6 hand pump is connected to the qt bottle and screwed into the lower unit drain plug screw location. And, the upper unit screw is not screwed in, most likely sitting on the ground. F.Then begin pumping the gearlube into the lower unit, continue pumping until the gear lube started draining out of the upper unit screw location. G.Then screw back in the upper unit drain plug, figure 4.

Be careful not to mix up the upper and lower drain plugs, one can tell them apart because one is smaller shorter than the other, some stern drives do use the same drain plug for both which is nice. H.Once the upper drain plug is tightly emplace, **Quickly unscrew/disconnect the hand pump and reinsert and tighten the lower unit drain plug. Note: It is ok if some gear lube falls out during the switch. I.From inside the boat’s engine compartment, continue to refill the gear lube tank.

(Engine Location: Top-right side, behind the oil filter, see figure 1) 8)Finalize Engine for Storage a.Using a can of Quicksilver corrosive preventer spray, simply spray down the entire engine, metal, hoses, and wires. B.Optional: One may use a damp area reducer to be located in the engine compartment; this will prevent one’s engine compartment carpeting from mildew. 9)Completed Figure 2: 44357Q2 QUICKSILVER OUTBOARD FLUSH KIT Figure 3: CRC Engine Stor Fogging Oil 16 Ounce Aerosol Spray Brand:CRC Selling U/M:EA Weight:2.0000 lbs Price:$3.99 Figure 4: Gearcase drain plug for gear oil. Figure 5: Freeze Plug Figure 6: Lower Unit Gear Lube Pump Figure 7: Lower Unit Setup Figure 8: Oil extractor •. I’ve got a 2007 Cobalt 232. I bought it used about 2 months ago and have a couple of question.

First, I’ve noticed a “growling” sound when I place the drive (volvo) in neutral. As long as it is engaged, forward or reverse, no growl. I had the dealer check it and they couldn’t find anything. I’ve looked for lose parts that might be rattling on the swim platform, but nothing. Second, my instrument lights are very, very faint. Is this by design or am I likely missing a bulb or adjustment.

Thanks in advance for the assistance, D •. Hi BoB, I have a ’78 and am just finishing putting in a new floor. There is a void between bulkheads where your feet would be. So if your are feeling movement or flexing I would have a look under the floor. You should be able to access through the infloor cooler, or on your ’79 through the ski locker. I had had water intrusion through the screw holes that hold the teak on the deck, and through the well that the windshield goes into and small leaks at the outer corners of the windshield, it went down onto the floor under the deck and through the floor at the screws that mount the foot boards to the floor. The whole area under the seats forward to the first bulkhead from the bow was affected, along with 3 bulkheads and 2 stringers.

I’d stick my head down into that locker, and even see what parts can be removed to allow you to see in that entire area. Good luck, James •.

Joe, Only difficult in the sense that it is a fair bit of labour. The deck is 1/2-3/4 in plywood stapled and glued to the stringers and bulkheads, then glassed over and interior parts laid in over that. I had to virtually gut the interior then cut the glass around the perimeter where it joins the hull sides and then try to shovel out the rotted parts and pry like hell on the sound parts to get down to where I could replace the rotten underpinnings. I am a millwright by trade and used to such work, it just took a fair bit of time. As can be seen in the pic., and more if you desire, I removed all of the unsound wood I could reach leaving as much of the sound glass as possible,then cut and fitted new pieces from 3/4′ G1S ply., coated them with epoxy, let it dry, coated them and the sides/insides of the compartments they were to fit into, fitted them in (generally meant tapping a fair bit as I made them tight), clamped the sides of the ‘sheath’ of glass and let it dry.

I then glassed over and around all the unglassed areas to seal it all in securely. I put as many as 5 coats of resin onto the repaired areas to bond it as homogenously to the existing structure as I could.

I then did the similar procedure to secure the floor. Most of the floor id 1/2′ with areas doubled and tripled for seats etc. I cut the floor in 3 section, fitted, cut fitted, cut until they would just drop into the correct orientation then epoxied both sides and the edges. When I put them in I epoxied the top edges of the mating stringers and bulkheads and the corresponding areas on the underside of the floor then dropped them into place and screwed them down with plated drywall screws.

I then filled any gaps/voids, as along the edges mating to the hull sides with copious epoxy then glassed over the whole mess again using several coats of resin to strengthen and smooth ready for the carpet applied with waterproof exterior carpet glue. Any questions just drop a message, I’ll keep checking regularly.

I also looked at Chris Crafts before buying my Cobalt 226. There’s not really any shit you can throw at ’em, but they seem like preppy boats to me. I think they’re over-priced for what you get compared to a Cobalt. A lo of their models seem to be more single-purpose than all of Cobalt’s models, such as single seats for 4 people with a big engine (sometimes, not always) and no room to actually move or walk around.

Cobalts are the best-designed, best laid-out and tip-top-quality boats, and you pay A LOT to get that, and most everybody knows it. Chris Crafts are tip-top-quality boats, and you pay EVEN MORE to get that, and most everybody knows it! 🙂 Chris Craft says to me, “I spent more than I had to to get a lesser boat.” My 2 cents. In my opinion the 272 is too big to ski behind, unless you don’t mind skiing outside the wake most of the time, as the wake is going to be pretty darn large and turbulent.

Tubing will be OK, but still pretty rough. I tubed behind a 27′ boat just one time (granted it was a Mariah). It was a very rough tube ride, and even kinda of intimidating; I could only imagine how skiing would’ve gone. I thought skiing and tubing were supposed to be fun?! Now, I’m sure the hard core people out there disagree and would love it, just not me. I’d imagine some parents would see the wake and say “I’m not lettin’ MY kid out there!” You can try to compromise by going slower, which will make the wake taller, or by going faster which will bring down the wake height but make the inside of the wake even more turbulent; Neither are very good for skiing, especially slalom skiing. Wakeboarders may love a nice, slow ride though, with a huge wake.

Bottom line: You can do it, but for skiing smaller, lighter boats are better. I have a 1979 19BR that is having a problem of stalling. It runs great for about an hour. When I power down after an hour and then put it in gear in the foward or reverse postion it stalls. This is a real problem when I’m trying to put it on my trailer. The next day it runs fine for about an hour and then it starts the whole process over.

I have noticed that the engine temp is high when I go and try to start it after it has stalled I have also noticed that when the water tempature drops in the fall I do not have any problems. I have been letting the engine idel for about 5 minutes before I shut it off to lower the engine temp.

I think it may be the water pump. Does this sound right or is it something else? Chris, This is a condition common to older Mercs. It has to do with misadjustment and wear of the throttle cable and the ignition interupt switch, that you should find on top of the engine in front of the distributor. The switch momentarily interupts the ignition to allow smooth shifting out of neutral. There is a web site with a good explanation of how to diagnose and adjust the switch, really quite straight forward actually.

I have the web site on my other laptop that is in the shop right now being healed. You should be able to get it by Googling something like ‘mercruiser ignition shift interupt’ etc. I have/had the same issue with my ’78 19CD.

(wish I had the Volvo). Good luck, James •. Hello: I have been having issues with a mechanic attempting to damage my Cobalt boat because I wasn’t willing to pay him the ridiculous price of $75/day for a trailer rental. I need to get some type of lock to be able to lock my engine compartment. The lock would prevent the engine compartment from being able to be opened.

Does anyone know of a source I might obtain that from? A third party source?

I have a Cobalt 206. I believe it would have to be something I modify and that might not be attractive. A pad lock might need to be involved. Does anyone have any thoughts? Hi, I am in Mexico Cancun, and recently I bought a Cobalt 272 1994, with engine 454 originally – serial and a transmission Volvo Penta, which was broken and I changed for Bravo 3 with propella pitch 22. The factory suggested in-dash mounting is behind the steering wheel and obscures the view of the GPS on our 2008 202.

I mounted a Garmin 378 on to top of the dash between the instrument cluster and the windshield support with the included dash mount. I did cringe about drilling holes for screws in the top of the dash, but it looks nice, and is highly visible by operator and passengers. Note, the 378 model has lake maps and highway maps built in, with options for XM Radio/weather/etc. Purchased new online for about $600. We trailer our cobalt 202 and the GPS has been great for driving to unfamiliar launch ramps, and we can safely take slow evening cruses on the water – navigating in the dark is a snap. This has been discussed at some length on other forums over the last year or so. The markets for cars, boats, houses in the US are pretty flat.

What this means is that despite what NADA, BUC or any other lists might say, the only right price is the one that the buyer and seller agree upon. If you are in a big hurry to buy and the seller is in no hurry to sell, the price goes up. Vise-versa and the price comes down. Moral, go to the dealer, look as uninterested as you can, make an unenthusiastic low-ball offer as you can and see what happens. If he/she laughs, shrug your shoulders and walk, muttering as you go that you will be back in a month to make a lower offer. If you have a friend, have him/her go in and excitedly offer the same or less. It’s a buyer’s market, but not all buyers know it.

That’s what the dealers like. I just came across a very nice 1979 Cobalt 19’BR kept in a three car garage for its entire life. The condition is like it was used for half a season, since everything is original and in almost perfect condition.

Yes, it has the optional canvas tops, the multipiece swim platform, the captain chairs, and stereo options. The hours show around 370 on the meter, which fits the looks.

The engine and outdrive look exceptional, but little use can be almost as bad as too much use. My problem is he wants a lot, but we all know it’s a buyer’s market. Ideas, thoughts, and strategies are welcome Thanks. I just bought a 1976 18′ Bowrider, my first boat. I have a couple of questions: 1.

You can tell that someone used to take very good care of this boat, but not for awhile now. The teak wood has not been oiled for over 10 years and left outside for part of that time. It has turned grey and the grain is starting to separate. Is there anything out there that can bring this back to life? Also one piece is missing. Is there a place you can buy replacement teak wood? I’d really like to get a new canvas top with the camper top addition on the back.

Any ideas of where I can get one? Thanks, Justin •. We have a 2005 220 volvo 5.o gxi.

We get 2 different sounds. There is a long beep when you put the key in the ignition followed by 2 shorter beeps when you turn the key, which we believe has to do with the fuel injector (these sound the same). The oil and temperature warning alarms are a totally different sound from the beeps heard when you put the key in the ignition; these are MUCH louder and go on for longer intervals. Maybe there is a short in the ignition switch or a problem with the fuel injector? Hope this helps •.

Evening, I am looking for a boat shop here in Eastern, NC ( we are close to Raleigh,NC) that can assist with getting our boat back together. A few years ago we removed the two long side panels in the main part of the boat as well as pulled up the carpeting. Our intent was to the buy the materials and redo it ourselves. Well, all good intentions, but due to health, economy and other obligations, it just never happened. Now, we are at the point where we want to get her up and going again, however I cannot physically do it. I do not anticipate any major issues, but I am not a certified boat guy. I am looking for a reputable company to: Replace and re-upholster the two long side panels Replace the carpet Re-assemble and adjust the control levers Do what ever other repairs necessary on the engine and associated parts to make it right Give her a general once over to make sure she is good to go Body wise she is in great shape, just in need of some really good cleaning.

I would greatly appreciate your recommendations. Boat is a” 1985 Cobalt Condesa, 23′ 260hp Mercruiser 5.7ltr, carburated.

Regards, Tony •. Hi, I am new to the cobalt boats.

I purchased a 1988 23′ condessa last year.Has 202 hours on it. I am looking forward to putting it in the water. I have also had the urge to sell it. I have motorcycles, atv’setc.

Too many toys to make it simple. Anyone interested in this condessa shoot me an offer. Runs out good out of water. Not sure about in the waterHavent had that pleasure yet. I am in Kentucky.

Anyone that can give me a fair market value of this boat I would appreciate also. If I don’t sell it I would really enjoy talking to someone that knows more than I do about it.(Do’s and dont’s). Shoot me a message at with interest or help.Oh yeah.It doesn’t have the camper top.Anyone know where I could find this plese email me.

I ran across this site by accident. It looks very helpful.Thx for any repliesor none at all is cool also.Have fun guyssummer is here. There is a post dated July 23, 2009 on this site listing a 2000 Cobalt 223 for sale. The same boat is also listed for sale on EBay and it shows up for sale on other sites as well. I am interested in the boat, but the model year for that particular boat is confusing me.

I am familiar with a Cobalt 223 model sold in the 1990’s, but not a model year 2000 Cobalt 223. There is not a reference to a Cobalt 223 in either the Cobalt 2000 owners manual or the Cobalt 2000 sales brochure. Does anyone have any information whether the Cobalt 223 was made in model year 2000? FOR SALE: 2002 COBALT 206 (21’) in White with Classic Navy Blue Stripe. Absolutely beautiful boatboth inside and out. Excellent condition and extremely well maintained.

Always stored indoorsboth summer (dry rack) and winter. Only 240 hours with oil/gear lube changed and DCM serviced at least 1-2 times every season. Includes Load Rite Galvanized Trailer, NEW stainless steel prop, full snap-in Cobalt carpeting, navy blue mooring cover, navy tonneau cover, navy canopy top, navy bimini top, digital stereo with driver remote control and numerous other accessories.

Just Dealer Certified Mechanic water tested/DCM inspected and ready for summer fun. Please call Rob at 412-780-5989 or email (rworsena@zoominternet.net) in Wexford, PA area. NO DEALERS PLEASE. Everybody wants to achieve a marvelous body to be able to flaunt it especially during summer time when you go to beaches. You must be one of those persons who are searching for available programs online that will help you out in achieving this. You are in luck since there is a system available which you can access online that can help you gain a healthier body through the use of its number of fitness programs and to top it off, it gives you an opportunity to earn substantial amount of cash by becoming a full pledge member or as a coach. It boasts of a lot of programs available which include P90X, Slim in 6, 10-Minute Trainer, Insanity, Turbo Jam, Hip Hop Abs and more.

The ones mentioned though are its best sellers. The P90X program consists of 12 muscle-pumping workouts made to transform your body in just 90 days from just regular to being sculpted to perfection. Along with this, you will also receive a 3-phase nutritional plan designed to help you lose more fat but still able to maintain high levels of energy to perform the exercises in the program. In addition, it also comes with a fitness calendar to let you monitor your progress, fitness guide, online support and a lot more.

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It is time you check out the Beachbody website to learn more about their fitness programs, including the famous P90X plus the opportunity of earning extra income with its Social Marketing [url=Exercise[/url] program. Jonathan, Engines overall are pretty simple. Is your’s fuel injected or carb? If it is carb, check that you are 1: getting fuel, 2: getting spark. I’ll ask the obvious. Did you turn on the battery switch?

Does the engine turn over? Do you have the boat in neutral when you are trying to start it? Is the shifter/cable working? Do you have the kill safety lanyard switch set correctly/is it working?

Do you hear anything at all like clicks from the starter solenoid? Does the engine have oil in it and did you ever run it dry? If it is fuel injected, can you hook up an ODB reader to the computer and see any error codes? That should hopefully get you started down the right path. Regards, Todd •. Hi Everybody, I’m in the market for a family boat – something in the 25′-28′ range – and just discovered Cobalt. I have to say that I’m impressed with everything I’ve read.

One thing I’m curious about is whether the boats are suitable for offshore use, or are they really lake boats. I’m not talking 200 miles out (near coastal?) but I’m in the Northeast and it’s nice to head out into the Atlantic for a few miles. Also, our bays can become quite choppy. The deadrise for the 263 model is listed as 22 degrees which is at least a semi-vee.

That along with the dry weight makes the boat comparable to other boats I’m looking at (Chris-Craft) which are considered suitable for offshore use. What do you think? Thank you in advance. Hello guys, My name is William and I am from Stirling in the UK. I have the other day discovered this forum and I like it very much.

I am a bit shy so I will not write much about myself but maybe when I will get confortable, you guys will get to know me better! My main hobbies are cooking and watching movies. I also love outdoor activites but the temperature has been horrible for the last weeks or so here in Stirling.

I was wondering if anyone else here is from the united Kingdom too? I am happy to have joined this forum! 🙂 William PS: Sorry if this was posted in the wrong section. I could not find the right one! We have a 2005 220 with a volvo 5.o gxi.

When the key is put into the ignition there is a long beep, which indicates that the boat has been turned on. This is followed by 2 shorter beeps when you turn the key, which we believe has to do with the fuel injector (these sound the same).

Along with these 2 shorter beeps, you should be able to hear the fuel injector opening up at the same time. Unfortunately, at times we have also heard the oil and temperature warning alarms, but these sound totally different from the beeps heard when you put the key in the ignition; these are MUCH louder and go on for longer intervals. Hope this helps •. Hey, We purchased our 2006 220 new from a dealer in Seattle in June 2007. At the end of last season we noticed the drive oil resevior was very low so we replenished it. When we brought the boat in for winterization at the dealer we asked for them to look into it. As it turned out there was a crack in the housing of the drive shaft ( uncertain of correct terminology).

The dealer said they would contact Colbalt and Volvo ( engine maker) and see if would be covered under warrantee. Turns out that Colbalt is blaming Volvo and Volvo says claim is outside warantee. The repair is estimated to be 7000.00. The dealer says the best they can do is give us the consumer complaint contact information. They mentioned that there have been other claims made with the same issue with very little success. Does anyone have a similar situation and any successs with anyone backing theri product. Our boat has been used for 3 seasons and has less than 100 hours on it.

This problem was the reason we bought a Colbalt and not a Bayliner. Cheers, Anthony •.

Anthony, Sounds like you need a new lower unit for your outdrive. You can find them rebuilt for less than what the dealer is telling you if you shop around. Find the outdrive part number on the serial number sticker on your engine block and look around. I’d think swapping a new one on would run you only a few hundred by any decent boat mechanic if you can find one reasonably priced somewhere. I’m not sure if you can have something like that welded or not, but it might be worth looking in to.

It would probably take having the thing completely disassembled first, fixed and then put back together, which is not a small job so finding a replacement might be a better option. Of the people I have seen selling a rebuilt drive they will want your broken one as a core to help offset the price of a rebuilt unit. I’m not sure what type of warranty you will get on one of those rebuilt units but if you can buy an extended warranty on it, it might be worth it. Drives and props on these things are definitely expensive. Good luck working it out!

Hey everyone. I am looking to get my first boat and really don’t know too much about boats, so I was hoping you guys could help me out here. I found a red 1991 Cobalt 206 Bowrider with approximately 800 hrs on it, but the engine was rebuilt about 2 years ago and has only 30-40 hrs on it. I think the guy said he hooked it up and tested the compression? And it was at 155. The exterior of the boat is in good shape with a few minor scuffs here and there.

Otherwise the gel coat is real shiny and the boat looks good. The interior is finished in the original cream leather which is in great shape considering the age of the boat.

Floor is solid as well. It also has a nice infinity sound system with the sub mounted behind a glass enclosure. The guy is asking 8,500 for it. What are some other questions I should ask (or issues I should be aware of) before pulling the trigger on this boat? Any help on this would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Jeff •.

Jeff, I’d have a good mechanic check it out, preferably not the guy who rebuilt the engine. Check all the fluid levels and make sure that they look clear, not cloudy.

I’m not sure if that year boat has wood stringers and transom but I’d really go over the inside of the boat to make sure you aren’t potentially in for any expensive repairs. Look for signs of water infiltration and rot. See if he has any maintenance records for it. Look on Boat Trader and NADA to see how the price compares to comparable boats. Does the boat have any options on it that might help its value? Stuff like freshwater shower, stainless steel prop, duoprop outdrive, docking lights, trim tabs, thru-hull exhaust, etc Arrange for a sea trial if you are serious about buying the boat and consider hiring a boat surveyor if you are concerned at all about what you are buying. You can find certified boat surveyors in most areas.

Do all the options work? Is he throwing in any equipment like lines, fenders, life jackets, safety gear, anchor? You can expect to spend another 1000 on outfitting your boat with all the stuff it might need to be sea worthy if nothing comes with the boat. Figure another 1000 for doing all the general maintenance items that might need to be done like oil change, spark plugs, wires, cap & rotor, belts, outdrive service & lube, gimbal bearing, bellows, a good detail job, cleaning supplies & equipment, trailer service. Call your insurance agent and make sure you can get insurance. Decide where you are going to keep it.

Around where I live marina fees run ~$1500 for a boat that size for the season with valet service (May to November) and another $500 for inside winter storage. When you put it all together, your $8500 boat will probably run you ~$750 / month if you are a frequent user of it. Boat Budget per Month: Payment $125 to $165 Insurance $30.00 Storage $210.00 Maintenance $100.00 Gasoline $200.00 Equipment $25.00 Miscellaneous $25.00 Total $715 to $755 From my own experience if you budget less you will be short at some point down the road when the unexpected comes along. Good luck with the decision! Regards, Todd •. Jessie, Yes, I think I can help. My good friend in Kansas City bought his 1982 COBALT, 18 foot, model FGE, Mercury 260 in 2005 for $5000.

He patched 2 places in the upholstery and he removed, cleaned & oiled every piece of teak wood. This past winter I bought the same year, same model Cobalt at $3000 on E-bay.

Mine also needs Teak clean/oil but the seller had spent $1200 for a full replacement of all interior cushions and upholstery. I will send you photos if you send your E-mail to me. Russell’s did not come with a trailer.

Mine has a 1994 Calkins double axle trailer. Feel free to call (970) 237-2002.

I live 60 miles north of Denver. Patti, Rear view mirrors can be found easily from companies like Overtons. Cleaning instructions for your upholstery can be found in your owner’s manual. One of the best things that I have found to get them really clean is to use a soft / medium brush and SoftScrub w/Bleach. You will want to be extra careful with any carpeting or cloth to not get SoftScrub w/Bleach on them or you will risk damaging them, but it does an awesome job on the seats and is recommended in the owner’s manual for my 233. Keep it off your fiberglass too since it is abrasive and will dull it up if you are not careful. When you are done, make sure you rinse it very well and clean out any seams with a tootbrush and a lot of water to get the SoftScrub out of them.

Wipe them completely dry and let set in the sun for a couple hours then wipe down with a good vinyl protector like Meguiar’s Vinyl Cleaner / Protector or similar product. I hear 3M has a really good vinyl protector cleaner product too. Then for every day cleanups use something like Fantastik Oxy or similar and follow up with Meguiar’s again. My wife did not think the seats were dirty until I showed her the SoftScrub trick and then it was night and day the difference. Hope that helps you out! Annoying beeping I have a sporadic beeping, but am having problems identifying the cause. I have a 2004 246 with mercruiser 350 engine.

Starting last weekend, the beeping started. The beeping is loud, and various in its length (15 seconds to 1 min 30 seconds) of time. At first, it sounded like the problem was the depth guage, however, i can not toggle thru the settings and it shut off. I have since rechecked all my depth guage settings, and dont think that is the problem. The beeping always stops, usually after running the boat in gear for a bit and getting up to cruising speed. How can i tell what beeps are depth warnings vs other engine warning levels?

What fluid levels or other events would cause a beeping warning to sound? Especially so inconsistantly. Some times it beeps, sometimes it does not.

The beeping (when it happens) sounds after starting the engine, never in mid cruising (the only time it did beep not on a engine start, was once when i put the into reverse when getting to park it) The problem is being able to describe the problem and predict what is causing the beeping. Any help is appreciated. Greg, I am not sure when you last had your belt replaced but it sounds to me like it is probably time. A new belt should not sqeal like you describe if properly installed and set to the correct tension.

If you have recently replaced your belt and it still does this then it may be the belt tensioner that needs replaced or adjusted. I would suggest you stay away from products that promise to make this go away. Belt dressing will just make your pully sticky. You might check to see if there is anything on your pullies that would make the belt slip. Regards, Todd •.

I have a 2000 Cobalt 253. Late last year, the Sony radio/cd player died on me and I removed the old one so that I could put a new unit in. I didn’t get around to installing the new one until now, and I can’t remember how the radio antenna was hooked up. Is it a standard car antenna plug in type, or is it in the wiring somewhere.

For the life of me, I can’t find an antenna wire anywhere. Any help in telling me what type of antenna these boats have and where it comes from would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for the help.

Just got my 2010 Cobalt 222. I noticed the hour meter is built into the speedometer, but much to my surprise I discovered a button below the dash that changes that digital display into multiple other information. Some are obvious like oil pressure and temperature, even degrees of trim. But there are several others I don’t understand, like L 69 and a gas tank symbol or R 0 and a gas tank symbol. None of this is in the manual, in fact the manual shows the hour meter as a stand-alone gauge, there is also nothing on the Cobalt web site. This is a really nice feature, anyone know where I can read more about it or what all the display modes indicate?

Just wanted to drop in and say hello. I have a 2005 Cobalt 250 with 375hp VP IO, dual-prop, less than 100 hours. Our Cobalt is kept on a trailer and we primarily day trip the Delaware River from Bordentown, NJ to Philadelphia, stopping for lunch and games at Dave and Busters. Great spots along the way to tube and/or ski. We also travel the Hudson River, East River, etc. Circling Manhattan (launch at Jersey City). Since we spend so much time traveling at slower speeds with a loaded boat I’ve been looking into Bennett trim tabs.

Has anyone else installed trim tabs on their 250? Did it make a large enough difference in planing speed and handling to justify the $$$? Also, I was wondering if this a job for a decent home mechanic or is this a dealer only installation? Presumably one needs to drill either into or through the stern. Have any forum members done this job themselves?

Pointers/tips and photos appreciated. Brian [IMG]•. I have a 1999 Cobalt 206.

A new engine block was put into it a year ago after a faulty impeller caused the engine to overheat and need to be replaced. Since then it keeps stalling when coming into docks or putting it into forward or reverse at slow speeds. Not every time but enough where it is a safety hazard. It revs and kind of “jumps” forward or revs on reverse depending on gear and then just dies. Again, not every time. My Cobalt mechanic has tried to fix this many times to no avail.

First the idling was adjusted several times. Second, the steering cables were replaced.

It continued and left me stranded on the lake after I hung out for a while in a cove and I had to get towed. Then when the dealership came to pick it up it started up and they were able to drive it to the trailer. Back to the shop again.

On this trip the fuel injectors have been replaced. Same issue remains. The dealership will be back Tuesday. I can’t possibly express how over all this I am as it has all been going on a year this month.

Does anyone have any suggestions about what I should do next? First off, as far as the engine goes, you should check out boat test.com’s link. This is a 246 (different boat but similar) with the same engine and out drive (26 pitch prop). It’s top speed was 49 mph but at its cruising speed it was burning less than 8 gph and earning 3.22 mpg. A new 242 lists for $71,533, with options described and based on common applications there would be an additional $24,623 in options/accessories. Thats a total of $96,156 for a new boat. $58k sounds great but you need to be mindful of the boats condition including the engine.

How many hours are on it? Good Afternoon All, I have a 2001 Cobalt 226 with the Mercury Bravo lll I/O.

I live, fortunately, on one of the nicest lakes in WI (Green Lake) My boat has been well cared for every year since I bought it new 10 summers ago. This year, much like the rest of the country, we have had unusually warm weather. As such, the lake was already at 75 degrees come Memorial Day (very unusual) As a result, Green Lake has had significant weed growth (far exceeding what we normally have). The height of this weed growth arived for the 4th of July time frame. It has since subsided and gone away for the most part due to storms, use of a weed cutter on the lake, and boat traffic. Sadly, I was one of many who’s engine intake was clogged by these weeds, causing my engine temperture alarm to go off. Initially, I thought it was the low gear lube alarm, but realized after checking the level that was not the issue.

I checked for weeds and once finding them, removed them. I then started up the boat and it ran fine. I parked it with some friends out on the lake for a few hours, then drove it back across the lake to a resturant near my home.

Near shore, the alarm went off once again. I decided to leave the boat on thier overnight and picked it up the next morning and drove it to my pier (a couple 100 yds) That was a Friday morning.

Saturday, I took my daughter and boyfriend out for a similar ride and the alarm went off again, even though no weeds were in sight. The boat would not start at all and remains that way today. My guess is that the impeller was shot from the initial weed issue, and so the engine keep overheating due to the impeller not working. So my question is, has anyone experienced this issue and if so, what was the fix necessary to return it to it’s former condition.

Thank you so much for your imput. On your dash panel below the switches are breakers. The one nearest the ignition switch is the ‘MAIN’ breaker. Try pushing to reset this. As to why it would have tripped, if this is the problem, is a mystery apart from the age of the breaker. I had the problem on my ’78 when I had the engine running, the bilge blower and pump running it would pop the main. Again, likely due to the age.

They are replaceable, might be hard to find an exact match. There was a post quite a ways up regarding replacements and where to get them. Hi all, Glad to have found this forum as I seem to have the only Cobalt in my neck of the woods. I bought a 1976 Deep V, 19’ Bow Rider with the MerCruiser outdrive and 188hp engine years ago. It had been relegated to the back corner of a boat lot and overlooked by those that wanted something shiny and new.

Anyway, I took it home and worked on restoring it to its original beauty from bow to stern, including the removal, sanding and oiling of every one of the dozens and dozens of teak wood pieces used throughout. My question to this forum is how can you put a value on a boat of this vintage? Can it be classified as a classic boat or is it just an old boat? After much research on the internet I found only one boat for sale that was similar and judging from the pictures, it was just an “old” boat. Sadly neglected and well used. I would appreciate any input on how to figure out what it is worth. Not only for insurance purposes, but for answering those curious people that just have to know what something costs.

I have pictures I can email and this is a link to the Cobalt brochure for the 1976 models. Thank you very much in advance for any replies. All I can answer is what you tell people who have to know what something costs: You tell them that it cost lots of time, labor and love. If they are looking for a monetaryt value, tell them it’s worth whatever someone who loves it will pay and maybe suggest they might start at $100K if they like it, but you’d entertain offers. Like any rare item, it will not have a ready market or easiloy identifiable market price.

I suppose if you had a household auction, it might only bring a few hundred bucks, but if it is seen by an early Cobalt enthusiast, maybe its worth $50K. The market is set by a very, very small pool of potential buyers •. Hello fellow Cobalt owners! I have a few questions and/ or requests. I bought a 91 255 this spring and have been having trouble with the horn tripping the nav light circuit breaker.

Is this a normal wiring job on the 255 to hook up the horn to that circuit? Does anyone happen to have the owners manual to this model (I already went to the Cobalt web site and down loaded that manual but the wiring diagram is unreadable and the rest of the manual is to general and covers a few different models of boats) Thanks in advance Scott •. I just acquired a 1979 Cobalt Condessa and would like to know who to turn to for asistance and resources. The boat has twin 350s and OMC sterndrives. It runs really well and is all there. It’s faster than a spotted ape. There are a few little issues that I am curoious about that I need to address.

The Sunhatch is inop somewhere in the system. This thing is like nothing I’ve ever seen in a baot before. It’s sort of like a car moonroof. It retracts inot the foredeck.

Who knows who might have information or know how on these? Also this boat does not have shore power or water. Does anyone know if they came with that as an option and if so how they were rigged, so I can rig it as close to the original as possible. The Motors have two seperate systems for running trim an trailering. If I understand correctly the running trim actually is done by pivoting the entire engine/outdrive assembly and the trailer trim is run off of some kind of a rod mechanism.

The Port trailing tilt is inop and it is in the down position so usable, but I’d really like information on how THAT works. The other thing that puzzles me is on the bow on the outside there is a lock reciever like on a cabinet, but I have no idea what it is for. Who can shed some light on this. I am undertaking to bring everything up to par on this boat, since there is little that needs doing. The original interioronly needs new covering on the back seat and sunpad. I need to do some serious cleanup, sanding and teak oiling, run some new wiring here and there and fix the above items. I will likely put in mew rocker switches while I’m at it.

My main intention is to put this thing in the Lake Michigan and make it fly. I am also interested in more history on the Condessa.

I have seen a few before, but none this old and only one with twin v-8s. Who can tell me when they were built, how many, etc. Anyone with knowledge of these boats, please contact me with anything you know. Tom, Can’t help you on the Condesa specifically, I have a ’78 19CD and a ’89 21CC, but there is some good general info here Also, your local Cobalt dealer might have some good info.

The Cobalt factory does not, in my experience, respond to customer requests but directs you to the dealers. The 21CC is virtually identical to the Condesa but with 2 less feet in the cock pit, behind the lounge seat particularly. As far as the power cabin hatch, Cobalt was doing a lot of innovative things back then, the centre portion of the windshield on my 19CD powers down and up for foredeck access, and is powered by a small windshield wiper type motor and a small bike type chain.

I would imagine your hatch would be a similar setup. There is an adjustable sprocket at the opposite end of the chain from the motor for chain tension.

It is likely, that if this is present in your setup, and I believe it is, this sprocket will need adjusting, aligning and/or lubricating. Hope this is of some help, keep us informed on how it goes. Cobalts are fantastic boats, and quite rare making info like this very valuable to others. James: Thank you very much. The catalog is very helpful and really tells me a story.

Now I am excited. The boat in the catalog is EXACTLY like my boat (except mine has the Galley). Reading through the list of options, my boat has EVERY option there is and they are all original and with the boat and mostly in surprisingly good condition except a couple of things. I do not have the tables (Cabin or aft) and my galley does not have the drop down extension on the countertop. There are some things that really thrill me. I have the original tonneau cover and it is missing only one grommet and the one next to it, the one is missing from the boat.

It fits and is watertight, but doesn’t look real pretty. I also have the original Sport top, camper canvas and side curtains the whole thing.

The optional factory AM/FM/Cassette deck is there. The stove and fridge are there and working, I have the electric aiming spotlight (But the motor or relay or something doesn’t work).

I have the OMC 260 option, all original and working well, except the trailer trim setting on the Port engine. The starbord enghine was rebuilt 60 hours and 3 years ago. The Port is original and working well with 680 hours. I have a spare set of impellers for the outdrives, which is a big deal, since OMC stern drive parts are very hard to come.

All my upolstery, in and out is original and in good shape, except the back seat bottom, sunpad and the lat down rear bunk mechanism. I was going to just use simple replacement pads and skip the roll and tuck, but considering how original and correct this boat is, I guess I’ll get a price on the full roll and tuck and rebuild of the machanism/replacement of the plywood backing. I’m now looking for either the tables (aft and cabin) or specifications and original material used. The galley drop down top will be an easy build for me.

I was going to swap out the stereo, but it’s the original so I want to leave it is place. I do, however want good tunage onboard, so I think I will remove the stove (but keep it in storage for show purposes) and put in a killer sound system that is not cut into the boat anywhere. I’m working on that design right now. I am getting real escited about this project now. I can hardly believe I have the complet, correct and original boat with all available options and highest performance power system available. I also have all the paperwork from new to today.

All owners manuals, warranty documents, service records, reciepts and everything. Thanks for the catalog again. It is a huge help.

Know where I can buy one. You have a very nice boat it sounds I have an 87 Condesa and I see that mine was the 69th one built that year. I found this on our fiberglass gunwells, just under the tuck and roll interior that has wood backing. If you really “tear into it” you will stumble upon you boats production number. As for literature, I actually have a Boat test article on a Condesa from that time period. The part that really flagged it in my memory was that it had twin engines as well.

The article actually goes into detail on fuel economy and performance! If you want a scan let me know. Recently purchased 2009 242 with upgraded sound system and tower speakers. I am having problems with radio randomly stopping. There is power to the radio because cd/ipod still playing but no sound. At first it would randomly come back on after 2, 5, 10, 30 minutes (no rhyme or reason). I tried investigating and when I moved some wires around it would someetimes start playing sound again but would not always last.

Last weekend it started cutting in/out as soon as we left marina. Has anyone had similar situation? I realize it could be any number of problems just trying to narrow it down. I recently purchased a 1979 Cobalt 18 Deep Vee, which was a bowrider model new in that year. I had some trepidation buying a 30 year old boat, however it had been completely rebuilt by the previous (2nd) owner.

It is a freshwater boat that has new composite stringers, new foam, a new glassed in floor with snap in carpets, a composite transom and all new upholstery and covers. It has the optional sun deck interior with captain’s chairs. All the mechanicals were rebuilt (4 hrs only then / about 20 now) and the power was upgraded to a balanced / blue printed full roller 5.7L with lots of performance goodies – probably an honest 300+ HP This boat is an animal – solid, fast (for what it is) and plenty of power. I had it loaded down with 6 adults (at least one 250 pounder)plus one 8 yo in the boat with coolers, beach chairs, etc.

And was towing 3 kids (8-10) on a sit-in tube. The boat was a little down on its lines, but hardly noticed the load – quick to plane and ran 45 MPH with an 18 pitch 4 blade aluminum prop (for a brief spell just to satisfy my curiosity) in fresh water. With four people, 21P 3 blade aluminum – over 50 on GPS trimmed out @ 4600 rpm. Cruise economy is pretty good too – 750cfm Rochester with vacuum secondaries – lopes along at 25 MPH @ about 2500 rpm. Not bad since this hull is not really designed for speed.

It digs a pretty big hole, but has a nice wake for knee boarding / wake boarding. Question – there are wires running up inside the inboard side of the windshield frame in front of the helm. There are a couple of tapped holes in the aluminum frame at the top, so obviously something was mounted there. Does anyone know what this could have been for? It’s not for a wiper – this is mounted at the bottom of the windscreen. I recently aquired a 2003 Model 226 and I would like to put a Garmin or equivalent GPS /Sounder unit on the boat. It’s going to have a 5″ or 6″ screen, so it is a somewhat large unit.

The helm on the boat is very attractive and functional but also leaves me scratching my head as to where to install the display. I am surrounded by Sea Ray boats that have a comparable unit installed, but looking over how and where hasn’t given me any help. There just doesn’t seem to be a great place to put the unit. Has anyone installed something similar to the GPS on the dash or around and where did you select to place the unit to give good access while underway?

Im looking at a 1998 Cobalt 220. Engine was rebuilt recently, when we took it to the lake for a test run, the boat sounded great when it was started up. I parked the truck/trailer & when i got back to the dock there was a loud whining sound coming from the motor compartment. The guy that was showing me the boat (owner) said that all older Cobalts fuel pumps are noisy. Is this true? It sounds like the fuel pump is bad to meor at least going bad.

He said that 2 of the 3 fuel pumps are new. Psthe boat only had a few gallons of gas in it if that makes a difference. All i know about the engine is that its a 5.7L volvo penta. Hello, New Cobalt owner (2008 Cobalt 220, very low hours) (Volvo Penta 5.7 gi) and I’m having a vibration issue only when I’m between 1500 rpm-2000 rpm’s? Boat was inspected by volvo penta mechanic prior to purchase who found no issues, computer is not indicting any error codes, engine runs strong with no power lose either. Performed a neutral test at same rpm’s and I still get vibration so I ruled out the out-drive. Contacted previous owner who said he had same issue when he bought the boat, checked balance on prop and after running in neutral he also ruled out the out-drive and he figured that’s the way the boat is and never addressed it again.

Forty (40) hours later I own the boat and want to solve the problem. Two mechanics ran my boat and after a tune up (plugs, cap, filter, oil, compression test, etc) believe it’s a clogged fuel injector? I will be sending the injectors out to be cleaned and tested, I was wondering if anyone else had this issue or if there is some other issue with Cobalt, Volvo Penta I should be aware of?

Thank you for any input. Not sure how to post a new thread.for the life of me I can’t figure it out!

Maybe someone can help? In the meantime, the thread I want to post is a “Wanted To Buy” type thread. I am looking for a pre-owned Cobalt bowrider, something nicely powered and in the 23-28 foot range, preferably with a trailer and preferably a fresh water boat. I am a cash buyer with a budget up to “around” $30K, give or take, depending on the boat. I’d like to spend less, naturally, but I will spend a little more if it’s a killer deal. Hope someone has something that might fit the bill for me! 2004 Cobalt 240; 6.2MX Mercruiser BIII.

Unknown alarm from the engine compartment is driving me bonkers. Starting last week, I hear two beeps sounding intermittently. Remembered having similar experience in 2009 which turned out to be low drive lube so I ignored the alarm with the intention of filling drive lube reservoir at end of the day. Other than continued beeping, engine performed flawlessly the rest of the day – at idle, at low speed, and at high speed. I’m back on water yesterday and, upon hearing two beeps, I realize that I forgot to address the issue.

I pull the engine cover and see that drive lube reservoir is not completely full but well above mark for safe operation. I call the dealer and explain the alarm. He suggests low drive fluid but I tell him I’ve already checked that. I asks how the boat is idling running and I relate that it’s running fine, to which he says that it could be the idle air control valve sensor. I tell him I’ll bring it in after the day’s use. Later in the day, I accelerate from 35 to 45 at which point the alarm goes constant and won’t stop until I pull throttle back to idle position where it goes back to just beeping twice. While we did have a good rain that day, all of the above happened before the rain so I don’t think it’s the bilge alarm.

Impeller was changed when de-winterized earlier this season. Only put about 10 ours on boat since then.